Commensality identity, a challenge for public health policies. The case of culinary exchanges: from mulli to wedding roasts in the Great Chichimeca

Abstract

The "Great Chichimeca" is considered as a region of constant cultural exchanges between sedentary and nomadic groups. It is located in San Juan del Río, México, southwest of the United States. In this research the relationship between the meals that were used in com­memorative rituals and traditional festivities associated with life cycles in populations in the area comprised between Querétaro and Zacatecas are shown. The objective is to demonstrate the possibility of accounting for certain cultural exchanges in the region based on food and specific forms of preparation, identifying transformations and continuities that promote iden­tity regarding ritual commensality. Some of the questions guiding this research are: Is it pos­sible to identify certain constants in the use of corn and chili? How did culinary changes occur from the introduction of turkey to the introduction of pork? Why are there certain dishes with names that have a direct reference to indigenous cultures? In which way is commensality related to international policies such as the right to food or the recognition of certain cuisines as part of cultural heritage of humanity?